Glycolic Acid - Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's)

I was just reading that in a seven week study by the University of Pennsylvania, at-home facial peels containing glycolic acid at a concentration of 10% was as effective as a 20 – 35 % professional glycolic acid regimen, but less irritating. (Source: ICMAD, June, 2006)

I have been using a 10% glycolic acid treatment, Renouveau, for 10 years and I can definitely see and feel a difference. And I have tried many on the market. Some were very irritating and burned my skin. Others didn’t do very much.

I have also tried RetinA and Renova and many other topicals and pills to control breakouts. They were too strong and I burned my skin often. With Renouveau, I can see a difference with my sun spots lightening, skin feeling smoother, and breakouts going away over night. It’s safe and gentle, yet effective. I would highly recommend as a way to improve skin texture and control acne.

Some interesting facts about AHA Action - Glycolic Acid Treatment

Extensive research into the role that glycolic acid plays in the prevention of fine lines, blemishes and hyperpigmentation has allowed the introduction of a whole new category of skin products.

Glycolic acid is one of a family of five acids referred to as "alpha hydroxy acids." These acids, commonly labeled AHA's include citric acid (oranges, lemons), lactic acid (sour milk), malic acid (apples), tartaric acid (fruits and grape wine) and finally glycolic acid.

Glycolic acid, extracted from sugar cane, is the most effective for cosmetic use.
Glycolic acid cosmetic formulations have been found to address the following major skin concerns:

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Oily prone skin
• Acne prone skin
• Pigmentation problems (age, sun spots)
• Dry, cracked skin
• In-grown hair

Of particular interest to many users is glycolic acids unique ability to loosen the natural "glue-like" substance that holds the outer layer of the epidermis together. As we age, or during times of poor health and hormonal upset, this glue binds too tightly, and the cells of the epidermis become too thick. This can make the skin appear dry, rough, scaly, dull or pigmented.

When glycolic acid treatments are applied to such skins, this "glue-like" substance becomes loosened, and the thick layer is sloughed away. As a result, the skin looks softer, younger and ultimately healthier.

Japanese Green Tea and Other Very Effective Ingredients (found in Renouveau AHA cream)

AHA's must be used in high percentages and low pH levels in order to achieve success. It is also known that this combination creates a skin irritation or prickly feeling. Japanese Green Tea is known to contain active chemicals to suppress inflammation and irritation, as well as increase the SPF factor of known sunscreens.

Calendula, Horsetail, and Witch Hazel are combined with Japanese Green Tea to form a powerful complex. Calendula (also known as Marigold) is an anti-inflammatory used in rehydrating skin. Horsetail produces collagen and elastin which helps keep the skin firm. Witch Hazel is a natural astringent and also anti-inflammatory in nature.

Another very effective ingredient used in the AHA products is hydroquinone, which is known for its ability to reduce its appearance of hyperpigmentation (age spots, freckles, and uneven coloring.)

The Renouveau Treatment in the GIELLA product line contains 10% glycolic acid and a 3.8 pH level with an SPF 8.

Prior to Prescribing AHA Products

The success of AHA's depend on their active nature. But as with any active ingredient, caution must be taken when recommending or prescribing their use.
Occasional stinging may be experienced when applying a product containing glycolic acid or other Alpha Hydroxy Acids. This is not an allergic reaction and is usually no cause for alarm. This is quite normal.

If you experience any redness, irritation or excessive peeling or flakiness, advise them to temporarily stop the application. When skin has returned to normal, then begin application on a gradual basis. When skin has adjusted, they can increase frequency of application.

Some medication increases the possibility of irritant or allergic reactions.
Previous treatment by harsh products or medical routines may lower the skin's capacity to cope with the action of AHA's.

Clients should be cautioned not to use any scrubs, abrasive products or other exfoliants unless they are prescribed for you. Doing so could contribute to further irritation and/or peeling.

Retin-A Users: Fruit Acids (AHA's) can be used in conjunction with Retin-A with outstanding results. If you are using Retin-A, products containing Alpha-Hydroxy Acids should not be introduced until the initial side effects that usually accompany the use of Retin-A have been fully accommodated.

If you are likely to be exposed to the sun while using AHA products, a sun block must be advised to avoid irritation.

AHA's should not be used on a skin that has been over exposed to the sun until the skin has returned to normal.

For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. Keep out of reach of small children.